Life in Bali

It's about 2pm, and I just finished up another epic round of surfing at Kuta beach. This is the life I say. Eat, sleep, surf, repeat!

I met up with a friend from Oregon in the spiritual center of Ubud. Yoga studios, massage parlors, meditation retreats, herb shops, organic raw vegan restaurants...this is definitely the heart of the conscious movement in Asia as far as I have seen. Beautiful scenery with tropical forests, rice fields, and Balinese architecture. Lots of artists abound with paintings, jewelry, sculptures...you name it they have it. My kind of place!

So after a few days there, we got the fish out of water feel and decided to head back to the beach for surf. That was a few days ago, and so far every morning I've been out there totally losing track of time and just enjoying the moment.

I read a book awhile back called West of Jesus, which follows a guy from L.A. searching the world for the perfect wave, and trying to make sense of the spiritual side of the sport. I can totally feel what he was going through right now. Just being out on the water sitting overlooking the most beautiful part of the world in the morning just puts me in a state higher than any drug.

So I am going to call this place home for the next few weeks, until I head back to the States. The surf, people, and vibe are the perfect mix for me right now.

Off to put in an afternoon session and then catch another incredible fire red sunset over the water!

P.S. - Have had many ask about the riots in Bangkok, but thankfully I got out of there a few weeks ago! Crazy how the timing works out, and definitely someone was looking out for me in Bali as they called my name to surf :)