2009-03-05

Chiang Mai and the Highest Spot in Thailand


Hello world! This place is incredible. I am sitting on the top floor of my guest house at a desk overlooking the city of Chiang Mai. The scenery is indescribable. The people are the friendliest I have ever met. I have been here for...actually I'm not quite sure...three days I think. That's what happens when you know you are doing the right thing in life. The days melt away...time is not an issue. I cannot emphasize enough how lucky I feel that I am experiencing this. I had doubts before departing the U.S., fears if you will. After all, traveling solo to the otherside of the world without knowing basics like language or greetings...it's not for everyone. But I like challenges...it's what makes people grow and have those moments that are carried through lifetimes.

But enough philosophy. What is there to do in Chiang Mai? Be prepared...this could be a lengthy read...

First off I have to say that the bus ride was far better than what I had pictured. The seats reclined much farther than on airplanes, the air-con was blasting (too much!), and the driver wasn't jacked up on amphetamines on a highway to hell like horror stories told. In fact, the 12 hours only seemed about four as I slept most of the way. Definitely the way to travel around here since the price was only $10.

But on to the incredible stuff...after wandering around from guest house to guest house at 6 am only to be turned down, I stumbled upon a hidden gem known as Kavil. The staff was super friendly from the get go, as well as the other travelers. To top it off, the room was only $7 per night and it's definitely the biggest and best I've had yet. I think I could get used to this place...

But first day did some Wat (Temple) wondering, where I got to give some English lessons and learn Thai from some monks. They are insanely nice people, and love to talk! I still can't get over seeing them all over the streets and wandering through 7-11...priceless!

Nothing like ending a long day of walking with a 1 hour Thai foot massage for $4! It's amazing how the legs respond and felt brand new after that. I need this back home after hard days on the bike!!

Oh yeah, so this is like the place to take classes for either Thai massage, meditation, or cooking. They are scattered everywhere! And lots of veg places abound...found an incredible veg only buffet last night at a place called Gap's House for under $3 yum yum yum!

So what else...oh yeah, the night bazaar was decent. More fun just to go and browse and people watch. Not many good deals (relatively speaking of course...everything is incredible compared to the U.S.). Bought a pair of pants that got stolen by a stray dog. Had to run after him and yell until he dropped them...good stuff to see a crazy American running through the streets at midnight...haha!

But definitely the highlight so far was a day trip up to Doi Inthanon National Park. I met a few travelers the night before, and somehow we decided to rent motorbikes and spend the day in the park. So, we woke up early, got two bikes, and set out on the streets of Chiang Mai. The only ones who had driven motorbikes before, and only once at that, were a guy from Uraguay and a German girl. So they both took to navigating these insanely busy and confusing roads. I cannot tell you how many times I had that, "Oh s**t" feeling in my stomach as my friend weaved through the city streets like any good farang not knowing the rules of the road. It's pure chaos if you're on a motorbike, or in a car for that matter, as there really don't seem to be any enforced driving laws!

Mr. Beer was the name of the guy we got the bikes from...classic!

Although I'm not sure how, we finally managed to get to the outskirts of Chiang Mai, where luckily it was one big open flat road to the park. However, none of us had quite grasped the actual distance from reading the tourist map filled with pretty pictures and symbols. So something around 60 km and 1.5 hours later we reached the park gate. Again, little did we know that the mountain summit was another 40 km from the entrance! In case you have not experienced riding a small bike with a small engine built for small Thai people for 1+ hours in the blazing sun, it is not exactly the same as our BMWs or Mercedes back home.

All was good though as the trip was well worth it as soon as we hit the first waterfall. Tired, hot, and looking for adventure, we decided to hop a fence and find the bottom for a swim. After a bit of repelling, slipping, and jumping, the bottom was revealed void of people. This was probably the most refreshing and relaxing swim of my life. Laying out on the rocks afterward was a pure dose of heaven. I could have stayed there all day had we not decided to depart for the top.

Again, little did we know what lied ahead with two people on small motorbikes climbing a very steep 2500 meter mountain. We must have started with 3/4 tank of gas, which was sucked up as we had to ride in 1st nearly the whole way up! There really was incredible scenery though, which made the time fly by once again.

Papayas!!!

"Modern" village gas station

The park closed at 6pm, and we reached the top at 6pm. Call it luck, coincidence, incredible planning, whatever...it was simply perfect. We did not have to pay the hefty $1 entrance fee, and there were maybe 2-4 other people at the top. There were beautiful temples, gardens, and statues. All of this being taken in as the sunset...if I didn't have pictures to prove it, it could have been mistaken for a dream...out of this world!!

Victory at the summit!



As darkness set in, we left the park for the looooong drive home. The descent on the bike was adrenaline filled, with some sharp turns being navigated by one little headlight. I also never imagined being cold in Thailand, but at 2,000 meters at night this is possible and probable. It came and went though as I just fell in and out of being in the moment on the bike. That was all up until the road unexpectedly got really really rough and bouncy. Sure enough, we pulled over and discovered a slow leak in the rear tire!

What did any good budget conscious travelers do? Stop at the first gas station, fill the tire up with air, then repeat for the 50 km back to the city. Well, four gas stations and a few kilometers later, the leak got bigger and the pressure held for 30 seconds tops. So 9:30pm in the outskirts of Chiang Mai with not a single Thai speaking English, we used some broken words and lots of gestures to find a place for the repair.

Thinking it would be at least 200-300B, we were shocked to be charged 20B. That's less than $1!! Just another testament to the incredible friendliness of the people here. They could have charged us anything as we were completely stranded, and obviously rich westerners...I love this place!

20B Tire Repair

Only thing that was scarier than navigating Chiang Mai by motorbike during the day was doing the same on a Friday night. We most definitely got lost several times, but eventually make our way back to the guest house sometime around 10pm. Surely one of the best days of my life thus far, and I'm not even a week into my trip!

On a motorbike at night to Chiang Mai going fast!

So what's next? I'm thinking a visiting a temple via bike (pedal) tomorrow morning, then hitting up the famous Sunday market for some goodies before heading off to my farmstay in Chiang Rai.

Take care of yourselves my friends, and don't get stuck on that plateau in life. Take it from the man...
“If you always put limits on everything you do, physical or anything else, it will spread into your work and into your life. There are no limits. There are only plateaus, and you must not stay there, you must go beyond them.” - Bruce Lee

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